Feliz Año

¡Happy New Year and Feliz Año! It´s much more fun being on a spanish keyboard than a regular american one. Funnily enough the last 2 weeks or so since I last wrote have passed by in much more of a blur than any of our travelling in India. Probably because it´s been much less punctuated by singular events. We´ve spent a lot of time in Colombia´s capital, Bogota, seeing the city and more family than you can imagine. Collectively Hernando´s parents are 2 of 19 total siblings, which all of course have one or two subsequent generations behind each one of them. If I can figure it out as far as "mom´s side" and "dad´s side" I feel I deserve a pat on the back. Anything more intricate than that escapes me, despite Hernando´s mother´s best efforts to thoroughly educate me.

We also visited another city quite a distance away where Hernando´s grandparents and yet much more family live. Everyone is very warm and friendly and I do my best at Spanish, though a good number of people speak good English allowing me to be lazy, or take a break once I have thouroughly toungue tied myself.

Today stands out as the most lovely for me thus far. We rode horses in the countryside and it was a dream. Like any girl I love riding horses. I would say I can´t get enough of it but my body would beg to differ especially after losing any extra padding I had before going to India. I am so sore! But it was so worth it. An interesting moment was when Hernando´s cousin Valentina and I went out for a second ride cantering down dirt country roads at sunset and we come towards a woman bent over a body lain on the side of the road and her two children standing protectively in front of it and she´s lighting a match over it´s stomach. Now I´ve just come from India where I spent a few days watching family funerals at the burning ghats and it brought to mind some kind of crude funeral that absolutely did not make sense. Well luckily and obviously it wasn´t, and I figured as much when I saw another stuffed scarecrow figure of a man sitting in a chair with a can of beer in his hand. They make a figure of a man here and burn it to symbolize burning the old year and welcoming the new.

Now if you were to ask Hernando his favorite day it would have to be when we went go-karting with 8 other cousins. And I had fun too because I beat Hernando at it by half a lap! And that´s how I measure my success, mwah hah ha. He asked me not to write that on the blog but what could he expect? Though since he loves it so much we went a second time and that time he lapped me, but I wasn´t racing as well as before.

We still don´t really know what we´re doing as far as making plans. We´ll be in Venezuela by mid-January but we´re not really looking forward to it. Colombia is so nice and safe they can enjoy the luxury of walking around on the street and being perfectly safe here, it´s so much better than before. Though things are different in Caracas, the capital of Venezuela. The situation is worsening day by day and people are starting to flee to Colombia. Everyday Bogota´s newspapers print somewhat disapproving articles about the current Venezuelan influx as though the tables have never been turned and Venezuela never had the same happen there with Colombians in the past. So basically being in Caracas to us means we stay in the parent´s apartment a lot especially since most of his close friends from there live abroad! Though we of course most look forward to seeing our friends who are there. There´s a great PBS frontline video on Chavez and Venezuela that you can watch online. I would find you the link if the internet here just weren´t so sloooow that I´d rather pull my hair out.

So as it stands after that we´re leaving the fate of our plans in the hands of Expedia. Wherever we can find a last minute bargain flight to once the peak season passes, we´ll go!

till then, ciao and ¡feliz año!

Q&A

I've received some questions from friends that I thought I would answer here on the blog, since they're the things that I didn't think to bring up on my own.


Where did we spend Diwali?
Diwali is the biggest yearly celebration in India. It's a Hindu custom and it's called the festival of lights. I was so excited to be in India while this was to happen this year. It passed mid-October, but in the end we were in Goa that night which is actually not very Hindu and very Christian so there wasn't much going on to see that night. We were on a super touristy beach, I felt mislead by my guidebook, so what we saw was on one hand touching and one hand ridiculous. The families of fishermen lighting candles by their beautiful handcarved boats was lovely, contrast that with westerner guys and girls and well off Indian men getting drunk in some bar on the beach and making an embarassing spectacle of themselves.


How was the food? combined with "How did you stay healthy?"
So before the trip began I was going around telling everyone how I couldn't wait to eat Indian food everyday for three months. Now this would be an amazing thing to do if we could have somewhat regularly found food as good as my local Indian restaurant in Boston, (Bukhara in JP!), but I should have heeded the word of my parents and not built my hopes so high. Let's just say the food quality is "variant." It's also impossible to find a kitchen to cook for yourself in-- I did once! I'll speak about that next-- so you are condemned to restaurants. Now of course we were on a budget so weren't eating at hotel restaurants everyday and that would have been lame if we did. Local restaurants and cheap tourist restaurants were our lot. When you sit down you are offered a never ending menu, but they only actually serve one or two dishes that day. Of those choices you have to deduce which is A. most likely to turn out ok and not as an unpleasant surprise and B. most importantly, which is less likely to send you running to the bathroom. Now I hate to be such a whiny spoiled tourist but this was a major issue. I've already spoken quite freely about my irregular bowels in past blogs-- it becomes such a banal topic of discussion that often 5 minutes into a conversation with another tourist we'd just met we're all exchanging poop stories. And three months of India left me about 18- 20 pounds thinner and Hernando 10. Though I must say Masala Dosas, the staple dish in the South, were always good. They're like a huge airy, crispy crepe folded over a yellow mush of seasoned potatoes and onions, so yum. And since only local places really serve them they were usually 40 cents for your meal.


Where are you now?
Though I need not complain about the losing weight since we are now in Colombia, the land of beautiful women who wake up looking ready to hit the clubs even though they are at the supermarket, or walking their dog through the park. I don't know if they'd believe me if I told them that celebrities in LA go food shopping in sweats or even pyjamas. So I have returned to adoloscence and become self conscious about my ugly, grey, but ever so comfortable tennis shoes.



Before we got here though we spent a week in England seeing the grandparents and doing a quick one night trip out to London. The weather was as miserable as English weather is in December but I didn't mind it for a week, though that's not to say I didn't enjoy seeing the sun again in Colombia. What we really enjoyed was Grandma's cooking. Especially since upon my departure from India it gave me a last goodbye, gonna miss you present: my last thourough bought of food poisoning. Now, almost three weeks out of the country and I still don't feel right and back to normal. I usually get sick once every 1-2 years, but I can't count how many times I've been ill in the past few months. Don't tell grandma though, she'll worry. Hey good news, as a British citizen (non-tax paying), I took advantage of their national health system, went to the doctor and I do not have a stomach parasite!


And the big question these days is where to next? And drumroll, we don't know. We'll be in Venezuela until mid january but we don't know how much money we'll have left for this lifestyle after that. So it's a big mystery for you and us alike. Hernando's pushing for a swift return to California to start life in San Francisco, which looks like our most sensible option as of yet, but maybe we don't have to be so sensible.... We'll keep you posted!

Hi again...

One more time I have to apologize for my bad negligent behavior in writing here on the blog, almost a month has elapsed since the last entry. I'll be honest, I enjoy writing here but sometimes it feels like homework and I'm not a grown up now for nothing. If I don't wanna do something, I don't do it-- said the mature adult. Well you're supposed to be a grown up when you're 25 but I'm wondering when I'll ever feel like one. Maybe because grown ups aren't supposed to go gallavanting across the globe, but I don't like the people who make those rules. All the more reason why rules are for breaking.



That said- hello. We are alive and well, and have been duly busy, and putting off writing. Let's start back a whole month ago when Hernando and I had missed our train up North and we had to rebuy tickets for the next train heading north. After half a lifetime we ended up at our destination, the village of Sanchi. This is where we had visited at the beginning of our trip and befriended the most lovely family with a grumpy and slightly scary mom. We wanted to visit them again and though it was an absolute pain to get there we were so glad we did when we saw Singh, the dad, and Annu the middle daughter, again. The experience of meeting them was defintely the best thing that happened to us in India. For all the people that tried to rip us off rudely, as opposed to in a friendly manner, and that I could have strangled during the trip, this family more than made up for it with their warmth and kindness. Even with our limited means of communication, they were by no means fluent in English and we of course much less so in Hindi, we really did break through barriers and had a very meaningful time with them. To the point where Annu told her father he was spending too much time with us and it was her turn. When you see the photo of Hernando and 12 year old Annu together (they give her a boy haircut and dress her like a boy, but she is not) you may see why everyone in India thought Hernando was Indian. Though their resemblance is just ridiculous!



Next we went to the world heritage site of Khajuraho's temples. Now if we thought Sanchi was in the middle of nowhere, this stepped up our concept of what it really means for a place to be in the middle of nowhere. Our two most horrendous journeys in India were getting to and from Khajuraho while we continued northboundish with a wide detour to Varanasi in the northeast. The temples of Khajuraho are famous for one thing, erotic sculptures of the gods "enjoying each others company" (I'll let you google the photos yourself) but we went there like we did to Sanchi, becuase I studied them in school and had to see them for myself. Honestly we did. It is a bit of a shame actually because the temples are amazing, they're not world heritage listed and funded for nothing, but of course they become they become comepletely marginalized by everyone obsessing over the sex sculptures on them which were only noticeable on one of the 22 surviving temples. So the temples were amazing but the journeys to and from drained us along with being somewhere SO touristy and dealing with the trappings of being a tourist in India.



The next and final adventure in India, and deservedly the most fascinating and truly cultural Indian experience- Varanasi. A place that of all places I have ever seen in my life across the 20 odd countries I've visited this one is unlike anything else. So unique that I find the task of simply describing it aptly a bit daunting. Mark Twain said this of Varanasi: "it is older than history, older than tradition, older even than legend, and looks twice as old as all of them put together," and being a genius couldn't have put it better. And he wrote that whenever he was alive a long time ago when the world was even older than we're used to it now, a wise man once said. And Varanasi has to be unchanged since then, and since it's conception which according to Mr. Wiki was 3,000 years ago. Ask a Hindu and you'll hear the city is 5,000 years old and started by the god Shiva, which I am willing to believe as well.

So besides being old what is Varanasi, you ask? It is a maze of streets, unmappable and hardly large enough for the thousands of resident cows that wander it freely and with 'tude. Cows that you have to sometimes pass carefully as to not get some horns swung into your bum (happened to friend while we were with her). Another friend, not while we were with her, got stuck behind one of the beasts as it relieved itself. Forget the Ganges, now if that's not a blessing with holy water, what is? Varanasi is like the Venice of Asia but it makes Venice look modern. You get completely lost in the lanes or "streets" but one musn't get too caught up admiring all the fascinating details or photographing them either because it's only a matter of time before a bunch of motorbikes with families on them come through and threaten to smash your toes into the cobbled ground. Everything about the city is about it being holy. Temple after temple will appear before your eyes because past the lines of people, cows, motorbikes, birdsnests in nooks above, cow poop at your heels, scattered flowers, miscreant monkeys and the bend in the road up ahead, you don't know what's coming next. The doors were designed to be tiny to make you stoop as in prayer when you enter a home. Amulets dangle here, an impromptu shrine there and so forth. And of course it is the home of homes to the Ganges. This is the place you've seen in documentaries and photos where people come to bathe in the Ganges, wash their clothes, drink the water and swim in it. You may also know that it is the most polluted river in the world, between it's human useage for waste of all kinds, especially the dead, and the untreated factory effluents that are also offered to it. Which brings me to being dead and/or dying. If you're a devout Hindu this is the place to kick the bucket and cease being. People come here to die, apparently there are centers full of people lying around waiting for death, not a club I'm anxious to join, becuase if you die in Varanasi you end the cycle of rebirth so you don't have to worry about what you may come back as. (I once killed a mosquito in front of my yoga teacher and he pointed out that that could have been someone's mother and then I felt like a jerk.) And I apologize if I'm being a bit forward and jokey about death but after experiencing death through the avenue of a culture so vastly different than our own my relationship to it changed. And that without my realizing it until sitting here and treating it as I do. Death is a fact and a part of life. Just another chapter in the book, and perhaps need not be so terrifying and shrouded in mystery, shall I tastelessly say.

Which of course brings me to the famous burning ghats. The part with the burning funeral pyres, the part that our hotel was near, so we saw a lot of it. So many dead bodies, covered in white and then dressed in gold fabrics are brought down to the Ganges, blessed with some water and then placed in the middle of a fairly tall stack of wood. It takes 200 kilos, or over 400 pounds of wood to burn a body at a cost of $20, and then the flames go on for 3 hours or so. Women are not allowed to attend, a good custom the British began, as women were often expected to commit sati for their husbands-- throw themselves into the flames. The families are sometimes serious, but often have almost celebratory processions down to the river. In Madurai, another holy city in the South, a week or two before this we saw a seemingly celebratory procession with drums and dozens of people. I was readying my camera when we noticed the center piece being carried on people's shoulders was not in fact a shrine but a dead body, dressed in white and seated upright, face revealed and looking forward as though he were a king on tour of his land. There are 5 types of people though who are not allowed to be burned and are deposited straight into the river: children under 5, pregnant women, holy men, people who die of a disease that gives you white spots, and cobra bite victims. Watching the funerals was sobering but I found them somewhat lovely and poetic in their simplicity, handling and tradition.

However the most lovely thing to do in Varanasi was hire a boat and see it from the river. We did it once at sunrise and once at night. At sunrise everyone is up praying, dunking, swimming, dipping, washing and drinking in the river, so much activity. At night there are some rather unspectacular ceremonies with candles you can float past as you admire the little prayer candles amongst magnolia leaves in floating paper dishes coming down the river.

We flew out of Delhi December 2nd, spent a week in England, and are now in Colombia with Hernando's vast network of a family but more about that next time. In conclusion and as your friendly tour guide I will tell you that if you are up to it, make a point of going to India in your life. Make it a must see because it simply is. Though it's not for the faint hearted. Only go if you are prepared for it at times to be more difficult and heartbreaking than you ever imagined, but so worth it all. We had a great time despite how much I believe I may have griped about it here. I love emails, comments and questions from you friends and family out there reading so fire away if you are so inclined.

Cheers,
Manali and Hernando (my somewhat silent partner in this venture whom I speak for freely. He'll have to tell you his side of the story when he sees you.)

I'll start with the last two weeks, they followed a pattern quite literally of yoga, eat, sleep, yoga, eat, sleep. Can't complain.



Now for the last three days, I could write a book, but I'll try to give you an abridged edition. We're trying to head up north again since it's almost the end of our India trip and we have a flight out of Delhi. We left Kochi, our yoga home for weeks, for the tea hill station of Munnar via government bus, and the next day took another government bus down the mountain on the other to Madurai. Government buses are fabulously cheap-- they're how the locals travel. Those 11 hours we spent actually on the bus aside from the collective 6 hours of delays cost us a grand total of $6. And they really can be such a great way to get around. Honestly other Western travelers might call me plain crazy, maybe I am, but they're such an experience. You see so much, more than your greedy eyes could ever digest. You pass through city after city, you hear all the noise, watch people doing their business in the street. There's the people selling live chickens, the PVC tube seller, the watch seller, the fruit stands with their beautiful stands. They organize the fruit into geometric shapes and contrast the colors of the purple grapes, oranges, and limes. There's always attention to detail in India. The goods carrier trucks are truly the most beautiful vehicles I have ever seen. They are battered with years of use, are painted festively and don and wooden, hand carved, hand painted banner across the top, with gods, lotuses, and designs around the words "goods carrier." Though needless to say after hours of staring out the window at everything we can and absorbing the dust off the street into your every crevice and pore on our sweaty bodies we're pretty beat.

Munnar the tea hill station was lovely but really just a stopover to Madurai and this bus journey really takes the cake in ridiculousness. Though not for being unsafe, surprisingly enough. The scenery was some of the most beautiful I've ever seen in my life. The tea estates in the mist and the sheer rock face mountains were so gorgeous, only to be contrasted in equal measure by the absurdity of what was going on inside the bus. The bus driver was playing Indian music videos, and Bollywood films at full blast for the entire 6 plus hours. I had earplugs in my ears and they still hurt. Though I was entranced and now understand the formula for a successful Indian music video. Take of course a lovely young attractive girl, though not Western-thin, size 8 or 10 is great, add a middle aged, mustachioed, overweight male (moles on face?- no problem, horroble shirt?-great) and have them sing a love song. At least half of the scenes must involve bizarre choreography under waterfalls, in a river, and/or in front of waves crashing on rocks at the beach. And there you have your own Indian music video hit. I really don't know wny they are so averse to young attractive men playing leads in India. Honestly, in one film such a character was a villain, and he was beat by the fat middle aged man in a martial arts face off!! There must be something I'm missing.

Ok so Madurai, is mad. It's one of those huge, holy Indian cities where utter insanity is the name of the game. I could never describe it. I have however taken about 500 pictures (no exageration-- digital, baby!) in some frenzied attempt to document it. Visiually I can't get enough of the place, --listening to myself type I am a real visual junkie. Like to look and look and look, I guess-- but such places are exhausting and two days is enough. I'll probably drive myself mad filling up 64GB of memory card space before I can download it if I stay any longer. I promise to upload pictures when I have more time.

And right now what I am doing writing this dissertation on 3 days journey? Well Hernando and I have had our first big-- Oh Shit-- moment. We missed our train. The train we booked today because it only comes once a week and was the single most expensive journey we have booked yet, $100. Which may not sound like much to us lucky westerners, people take out loans so they can build houses with that much here, but Hernando and I are budgeting $300 a week for the 2 of us so 30% of our weekly budget hurts. But what can you do? Well as it turns another train is taking this less traveled route tonight at midnight, so we had to rebuy the tickets and get split up. I'm going ot be in first class! and Hernie in 2nd AC. I however am not looking forward to getting split up from him. I get enough unwanted male attention while I'm with him. And two crazy Aussie girls we befriended in Kochi said they had men touching their legs while they were trying to sleep on an overnight train once. Oh and did I mention that this is a 36 hour train journey?? Lots of re-reading books time. Well must be off, I don't fell like missing this one...

PS. Speaking of re-reading books everyone has to read The God of Small Things by Arundhati Roy if you haven't already. She is too amazing. That book is a novel but she also authors hardcore political essays about all types of Indian atrocities so I'm completely in love with her.

South India and a sigh of relief

We have finally reached South India and we had no idea what a relief it would be to come here. We're in Fort Kochi, in the state of Kerala. This region is famous for it's backwaters, there are just rivers everywhere. We've done the compulsory tourist boat tour on the back waters which was quite nice though I think I perhaps enjoyed the journey to the place even more. We took local buses, which when not overcrowded and time is not an issue can be quite fun. You just see so much. If you want a quick overlook at what a place is really all about get on some local buses. We passed village after town after village and when we had to change buses a friendly young guy obsessed with his cell phone walked us to the next bus and told us which one to get one since all the signs down here are in the local language, Malayalam. This is a bit of a dissapointment to Hernando because he has actually been learning some Hindi since we got here and now he can't use his skills.

Speaking of Hernando and his love of learning he is currently taking a class on an Indian instrument called the veena. It has 12 strings like a sitar-- see the photo. And this morning we took a yoga class that apparently turned out to be an advanced class though we hardly ever done any yoga before! We took two classes a week ago and liked it but we did not go in prepared for what was ahead of us this morning. A little way into the lesson we're doing these stretching poses on our backs with our knees bent and legs in the air and the guru decides I'm ready for the advanced pose. He literally folds me into a pretzel with my ankles crossed and my head sticking out in in front while on my back like a flexible but helpless beetle. And then halfway in we were both doing headstands-- gettingup and staying up independantly! Go us and this amazing yogi who I think in turn wants to turn me into a yogi before we leave India.

Two nights ago we watched a Kathakali performance. It's traditionally a dance or play performed in Hindu temples illustrating important stories about the gods but it seems that it is mostly preserved for tourists now. Indian people have little interest in it anymore, what with Bollywood, TV and the internet, and it's quite profittable to charge tourists $4 a piece and fill up an auditorium. Wow that was touristy. I honestly felt like I was at the zoo while I and all the other white tourists snapped their digital cameras away at the centerpiece. But I'm glad I went and got to see it still. Hernando had an amazing time to my left. I keep looking over at him silently dying of laughter in reaction to the very expressive acting/dancing. I mean VERY expressive. You have to be when you don't use words and just use your body to convey messages. They paint their faces beautifully and colorfully and wear amazing costumes. The best was the female demon, as is typical of female demons she (acted by a he) had a black painted face and exposed pointy breasts you come to understand that she is evil by her mischeivous eyes and maniacal screams.

I think Hernando and I have found a place we really like and will want to take it easy in for the next week or maybe longer. The people are so nice and friendly, they are so much more pleasant than people in the north. Life is more laid back and though you get used to constantly being on the offesive up there it's a huge sign of relief to be friendly again to strangers and not have to shoo them away like flies because you are constantly being hounded.

One more thing that surprises me that I'm sure you're all curious about is that Hernando and I turn out to be great travel buddies. Honestly before we left we weren't sure how long we'd have before we wanted to kill each other. But even though we've spent every moment of every day together for the last two months we have managed to remain not just civil to each other but enjoy being together. We each become annoying and a pain in the butt at times but it blows over easily. We were having a good laugh yesterday with 2 Australian girls who have been traveling together about how good it feels to have a fight when you need to and get over it.

I have finally uploaded more pictures to flickr! The address is:http://www.flickr.com/photos/37516374@N02/ enjoy!

Someone here in Goa really had an Indian stroke of genius when they decided to put an internet cafe inside the train station. Travelling on trains is definitely the best way to go here, they are affordable and comfortable, but they are reliably unreliable. It's safe to say that every train we've ever taken has been around or at least 2 hours late. So a place for killing time in a time wasted zone is a lifesaver.

So Goa is nice, I think we made the most of it quite well. We had a beach craving we needed to satisfy, and now that we have we can move on. Though Goa is not really like being in India, which is a good and a bad thing. When we first got here we were so relieved, food was realiably good-- my 3 weeks of diarrhea went away, people spoke better english-- now that just sounds awful and spoiled but let me clarify and digress... in India people HATE to say "i don't know" so instead when you ask a question and the person has no idea what you're saying they just say yes. Now eventually you get a little frustrated when it seems everyone in the country is steering you in the wrong direction just because they don't know how to acknowledge they don't know the answer. Some don't say yes and point you on further down the road, to the next person towards a cow, whatever. A straight answer is like gold and perhaps harder to come by.

So what I'm trying to say before I run out of time is that Goa is nice if you need a break of India or if you're one of the many tourists who come to India without actually wanting to come to India anyway. You can pay a lot for everything, spend all day at a abeach, and all night at a bar but right now I'm ready to get back to India on a two hour late train to Kerala.

Beach time

Hmm... 2 weeks since the last post? I believe that. I think Hernando and I have been on another planet for the last 2 weeks, and especially the last few days. Right now I'm actually surprised to find myself on the internet. We're on a remote beach that thus far still doesn't have a proper road to it, though that is unfortunately soon to change as they are working on a road right now. We're in Gokarna, in the state of Karnataka, south of the touristy beaches of Goa. I forget how amazing it is to be on the beach, to operate on beach time, with nothing to do in a hurry.

We are now half way through our India trip. We've seen a lot, done a lot, but now we are relaxed and we're both in very contemplative moods. Our lives have been divided into simple sections, life before the trip, life since the trip began, and what we have ahead, both for the rest of the trip and for daily life once again when we restart in San Francisco. We are both so glad to have stepped out of Boston, and the lives we had there. Hernando's job was better but we both feel like we were just caught up in the rat race with everyone else. It's just too easy to do. Work, make money, spend it, over and over. Traveling like this has given us new perspectives. I feel like I've been given a chance to step outside myself and concentrate on what I want to make happen for myself in the future.

That way of thought comes after observing what I have of life here for people in India. People here are very caught up in the rat race on a level of desperation you don't see in the US. People work and work here for that very last rupee --there is no 8 hour day here, that's the stuff of fairy tales-- and it often will be the difference in having food on the table, but only after the cell phone has some credit on it and they have chewing tobacco in their pocket. The mentality seems to be the same everywhere, we seek modern things and the extra money required to have more of them all the time. The man I mentioned in the last blog from Sanchi seems to have it all figured out just right. He has a house that his whole family shares, three generations and then some under one roof, but everyone gets fed, the kids go to school as opposed to work for extra family income, and he spends his days doing the things he likes to do. Money is not a worry for him so long as he has enough to maintain his way of life, and his way of life doesn't require much.

Speaking of our friend Parihar, our last night in Sanchi we were invited to watch a ceremony he called "husband puja." This is an annual ceremony chosen to take place on a night of the full moon. The wives fast all day, no water even, and prepare special foods to be taken during the ceremony at night. When the moon came out we all went to the roof, surrounded by neighboring families on their rooves. Usually 2 or 3 wives perform the ceremony together. They pray, burn incense, walk in a circle and spill water and grains, then each married couple pairs off and the wives do a prayer for their husbands, touch their feet, and feed them a bit of yummy coconut cake and other things. I took tons of photos so those will have to posted next time I feel inclined to leave the beach and use the internet. It seems to be for the wellness of the family though again my only given explaination was, it's husband puja, with a shrug, just one of those things you understand if you are Indian. Puja is a word used for everything. You have puja with holy monuments, with statues, with anything spiritual, it's just puja, a lovely way of understanding that I don't entirely understand as a foreigner.

Thank you everyone who has left feedback in one form or another. I love to hear from everyone, and to know that people are reading. I'd love to hear from more people though, let me know if you're out there!!

Lazy days in rainy Sanchi

Finally after weeks of draining rushing about we have found a sleepy little town to relax for a few days. We came here for the famous Buddhist Stupa I studied at the Museum School, though we've been so relaxed that after 4 days we still haven't seen it! We hadn't anticipated spending so much time here but we met a truly friendly Indian man who befriended us and has been showing us around. He's lived here all his life and takes an interest in cultural things that travelers enjoy as well so he often befriends the travelers who come to this town. Most fascinating are the ancient rock paintings he took us to the first day. This region is somewhat covered with them though the famous ones are further South. But since these are minor ones we got to have the place to ourselves for hours just relaxing and enjoying the ancient paintings and trying to figure out what they all are. We also saw an ancient temple that was reduced to rubble but it currently being excavated and renovated. When they finish I'm sure it will be amazing, though for now it is somewhat of a secret apparently it's not known about by any guidebooks, just a local treasure.

The nights we have been spending with him and his large family in their home. It's such a treat to be invited into someone's home. The family is very sweet. He has 3 kids, his parents and sister in law and her kids live there too at times making a total of 10-12 people on a regular basis! His 18 year old daughter has been teaching Hernando Hindi and I've been playing with Annu his energetic 12 year old daughter. She's a total riot. The girls covered my left hand and arm up to the elbow with henna one night and it turned out beautifully.

The last 2 days have been very rainy so we've been taking it easy and reading a lot. Tomorrow we hope that the weather will actually clear up enough to let us see the Stupa we came for in the first place before we head off to Mumbai for 3 days.

We are on our way South to the beaches. Though large areas have been absolutely devasted by torrential rains in the past few days. It seems that the areas we want to go to are ok though. We'll see!

check out some photos at: http://www.flickr.com/photos/37516374@N02/

sweat, patience, and the Taj Mahal

India is tireless, insistent, hot, smelly, filthy, impoverished, beautiful and culturally rich. As much as we have worn ourselves out we are so glad to have come. I've imagined this place my whole life, watched the documentaries, looked at the picture books, but nothing is ever like actually being here and experiencing it myself. As cliche as it is the most apt description I find is that India is a multifaceted experience that plays itself out on your every sensory level in excess.

For example: a simple walk down the street-- It's hot, you step out of your guesthouse and exchange a friendly smile with the guesthouse worker who you were arguing with over prices an hour ago. Grudges don't hold out here too long, everyone is after your business/money at all times, you stand up for what is fair and move on. Did I mention it's hot? You're already dripping with sweat. A rickshaw driver jumps to attention and insists on driving you wheverever you want, you insist on no over and over and stop making eye contact quickly so he isn't too hopeful. And repeat that with the 30 other people with a saleable service you pass until you reach the end of the block. You're at a roundabout, a huge cow is leisurely picking his way through the traffic that anticipates it's movements and swarm around it like bats using sonar navigation. While refusing a dozen more drivers you dodge the traffic yourself which is coming in all directions at all times. Since people never use them lanes are often not even painted on the street. People drive en masse on the wrong side of the road so long as a huge vehicle isn't staring them down. The distinct smell of human defecation fills your nostrils, you've come to recognize it. You look down at your feet in flip flops wondering where not to step but the whole thing looks like a mess, just keep walking. A woman who must be young is looking at you with a dark leathery face, a small child is draped over her shoulder so it's bottom is facing you. She lifts its badly scarred leg in your direction, you look away and keep walking. Soon you figure you're probably lost. You haven't seen a street sign yet, you look for a rickshaw driver and finally can't find one.

Other interesting things about India are:
There are animals everywhere. Cows really are king here and they're everywhere. Besides them there are hordes of dogs, cats, tourist areas have elephants giving rides on the sides of the highway, camels are in common use for carting and tourists, monkeys are everywhere, we haven't had any bad encounters with them yet but everyone here is pretty freaked out when they get too close, pigs, huge oxen, donkeys, mules, and horses absolutely overburdened with huge carts of stuff, i've seen a couple peacocks, and one night i saw a leopard! Hernando doesn't believe me because he's jealous. We were driving back from a remote hilltop fort on another awful road at night and i saw it peek out from behind a rock! That was awesome.

Men are very affectionate with one another though be clear this is still a homophobic culture. I believe they don't acknowledge homosexuality to exist therefore it's ok to hold hands with one another, walk with their hands around each others waists. They look like items...

And oh so joyfully I can now say I know what it feels like to be a celebrity. Everyday a number of men ask if they can take their picture with me. For the first 2 weeks Hernando and I tolerated this odd anomaly until it was no longer that. Actually the deal breaker was when one of them tried to hold my hand, and all Indian men from here on out have to suffer because of him. I'm serious, I am literally being hounded for my picture. To the point that where despite the Indian desert heat I prefer to go out with a shawl covering my hair and I wear sunglasses indoors and I shoo people away like Princess Diana with the paparazzi.

Our patience is definitely being tried. Sometimes it feels like we are persevering to have fun, but we certainly are. I can't expect you to go on but if you have another free hour I'll go on about where we've been!...

We spent two days in Dharamshala, a hill station in the himalayas famous for being the home of the Dalai Lama in exlie and thus scores of Tibetan refugees. I can't say much for the place, the weather was dismal and all the buildings were so dusty and moldy I felt like I could hardly breathe. The pillows we were given were so thouroughly infested with black mold, I couldn't believe it. And when I asked for new ones there wasn't much of a difference so we went pillowless. As a place it also wasn't very special though we enjoyed the Tibetan Buddhist temple, prayer wheels are so lovely, and we enjoyed the museum commemorating the plight of the Tibetan people. Well you can hardly enjoy learning about a people's collective torture and suffering but we were glad to walk away with a better understanding of what they have gone through. Tibetans are openly discriminated against and marginalized in Tibet and are paid lower wages for the same jobs. If you're interested the Dalai Lama has a website: dalailama.com.

Amritsar is also hardly a pleasant city but it is perhaps the most fascinating place I've ever been to. It is home to the Sikh holy place, the golden temple. It is so beautiful but what I like most is that unlike almost every other place you visit as a tourist this place is very much in use. And when you visit you take part in the traditions whether or not you are sikh. You take holy food with your hands after you leave the temple, you touch the holy water, you can also drink it but I'll leave that to the Sikhs. They even host anyone who needs a place to stay for free in a huge room with hundreds of mattresses on the floor. You can eat there for free 24/7, they are always serving. We had some good dal, rice pudding and chapatis there. The craziest cultural activity we've witnessed was the daily retreat ceremony at the border with Pakistan. Everyday thousands of people drive out to the border after it closes on both sides to watch their guards do a bizarre show. They're dressed up with fans in their turbans and hats, they stomp their feet, they rally the crowds, girls and little boys dance in separate groups to bollywood hits in the middle before it starts. For part of it both sides throw open the gates and charge one another right up to line where they throw out their arms and chests and like-- what you gonna do?-- and the crowd goes nuts shouting Hindustan, or Pakistan depending on what side you're on. What strikes me most is each side gets so into it as though they are making their stand to one another but in order for it to work it has to be so highly choreographed between the two armies. A bird above would see thousands of people doing the same things on either side of a closed gate. I have never heard of this anywhere else in the world, it obviously speaks volumes of the tension between these 2 countries despite everything Gandhi fought for.

This morning at 6 we saw the Taj Mahal. It is so incredible nothing else is like it in the world, it is worth all the hype. I think everyone should make an effort to see it and experience India at some point in their lives.

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Manali in Manali

So all my life I've heard about and have been dying to see this beautiful little village in the foothills of the Himalayan mountains called Manali, where of course my name comes from. And we're finally here. Upon research though about the place I find that there's a holiday inn and I have even heard from the occasional person who's been here before that there's a McDonalds, so needless to say this place has become all but undiscovered. Good news-- there's no McDonalds though it's very built up with guest house after hotel after guest house. Many Indian honeymooners choose to come here as with Indian tourists in general and for some odd reason hordes of Israeli backpackers. Unfortunately the local people have never heard of a trash can so they through everything in the river or on the nearest patch of available space, though litter is a huge problem throughout India not just here. Not to knock the place too bad, I know I don't sound too impressed yet, but it wasn't until our second or third day here that I discovered the gem of this place. In the back lanes of Old Manali, as opposed to the part known as New Manali, Hernando and I happened to come across the very old traditional houses of the local hill tribe people. They're 2 story homes that function both as a barn and house. On the bottom floor there's the family cow and the top floor usually has a beautifully carved wooden balcony that may be painted bright turquoise or green. It was lovely to get lost in those lanes they also have an amazing view of the valley below and tall mountains, some so high they are still capped with snow. That I imagine is what my parent's saw and fell in love with all those years ago, before the development Manali now sees today.

It is quite surreal to finally be here after a lifetime of curiosity. I'm still not quite sure what to make of it. The wierdest part is hearing my damn name everywhere-- that I will never get used to. I have to stop myself from turning around to every passer by sthat says Manali. It is also of course quite amusing to introduce myself to people. The bus driver from Delhi got a real kick out of it. One of the other people at the station must have told him my name because he didn't speak any English but whenever he saw me he would just say "Manali, Manali!"

Moving on to the most terrifying ride in my life, well one of them. There was one in Venezuela that was pretty bad as well... anyhow... Yesterday H and I were in a jeep like vehicle climbing 2,000 meters, over a 60 kilometer road (40ish miles?) fpr 3 hellish hours to reach the beutiful place you see in the photo called Rohtang pass. Our driver was nuts, though nery nice, overtaking any vehicle he could on this narrow cliff edge road. We finally made it and then an hour and a bit later it was time to come back down, mostly in the dark! I took videos. One day I'll have the time and gather the technological known how to upload that.

Tonight we leave on an overnight bus to Dharamshala, the home of the Dalai Lama.

Namaste!

(hello and goodbye in Hindi)

our first two weeks

I can't believe two weeks have gone by and this is our first post about the trip! Well we've been busy and we've hardly had a chance to get on the internet (except to cancel our energy bills!) until now, so there will be a lot of ground to cover.

The first 10 days were in England. London was fun. We did the Eye (giant ferris wheel), the Tate Modern, got lost in Camden Market, took our photos in front of Big Ben and all those things you have to do when a toursit in London. My 3rd cousin's Matt and Olly were sweet enough to put us up even though I totally played the family card on them. I'd only met them and their brother Richard twice before that! But we had a blast they're also musicians and a lot of fun-- thanks again guys!

After 5 days there we moved on to spend the rest of our time with my grandparents (mom's side) in the ever so quaint town of Woodbridge, a seaside town 1 1/2 hours NE of London by train. They drove us around everywhere since we decided not to save money and not rent a car of our own. Woodbridge is filled with picturesque and pristinely preserved buildings from the 1500's, and hobbling retirees who like to visit all the shops. We visited the seaside, Hernando saw his first castle, we drank many cups of tea, and enjoyed the rides through the narrow country lanes.

We also saw my Grandad, my dad's dad the Baptist minister give a service. It was my first time seeing him in church and it was how Hernando met him. Yes we arrived late to the service and sheepishly tried to sneak in unnoticed but the 10 other people in congregation all turned to see who these news strangers were interrupting the service. I also felt questionably dressed, I only have my ugly but oh so comfy grey sneakers and I didn't match at all, like OMG. I'm glad we went Grandad is 94 and I don't know how many other opportunities I may get. Though he is actually the most sprightly 94 year old ever, he looks at least 20 years younger. He always says he doesn't know how much longer he has, though almost gleefully. He can't wait to join Nana, God, and Jesus in Heaven. I don't know that I will joinging the Baptist church anytime soon though. Maybe a Hindu temple, they are vibrant and colorful... Though I guess Grandad would say that I'm just a doomed pagan. Oh yes-- in Hernando's sweet attempt to converse with Grandad he kept wanering into no go zones. I wanted to sigmal to him to stop but could only sit back and watch the show. At one point he unwittingly got Grandad to admit that my cousins are pagans, which means that we also are pagans. Yikes.

So we left Woodbridge and more than a day later with a 5 hour stopover in Bahrain we found ourselves in Delhi, India. One thing's for sure, we ain't in Woodbridge anymore. Delhi has to be the utter opposite of Woodbridge. Big, hot, dirty, smelly, and utterly chaotic. That' not to say we haven't enjoyed it! We've seen some sights and I have so much more to say but we need to catch a bus to our next destination-- Manali! Will write soon!

Yikes

This is the state our apartment is in and it's stressing us out!

Almost there...

Finally 2 years after we said we would do it we’re one week away from our big trip!! 3 months in India and (hopefully) the remainder of a year in South America, where we’ll have to work our way around since we’ll probably run out of money in December. And then we resettle in San Francisco! I can’t wait, it’s an amazing city and I’ve always wanted to live there. Also, I miss California and I think it misses me too.

While I am so excited I’m also starting to feel a little overwhelmed by all that has to be done in this next week, like selling things, packing, canceling that and blah blah blah. It will never end but we’ll be gone whether or not our Boston lives are closed up. On top of that I’m sick and I sound like a man and I get spontaneous coughing attacks. I freaked Hernando out on the phone when I called him at work earlier today—he had no idea who I was but I was chattering away. And my landlord insistently told me that I sound absolutely awful in her amazing North Shore accent, which of course elicited a deep croaky laugh.

Oh yeah, I always forget to mention that we’re also going to England, and that should be where you here from us next. I am looking forward to it, though with reserve. Hernando will finally get to meet my grandparents and those other wierdos I’m related to but unfortunately it will be at a family funeral. My mom’s uncle David is finally no longer suffering from asbestos destroying his body.

On that sad note, thanks for reading my test pilot. Subscribe to our blog if you like pretty pictures because I’ll be posting them as I go. Hopefully it won’t be too impossible of a task since we’ll be relying on Indian internet cafes to get the job done and my camera’s technology is probably at least 6 light-years ahead of their capabilities.